Like everything in the beauty / lash industry - there is science behind what makes things work and what makes things not work - including something as simple as making a spike for a wispy or anime set!
To make a spike you need to place liquid onto the volume lash strip first - but different liquids will produce different results and some of those results you won’t want.
Here are Locks Lash’s recommendations (based on science) of what to use and what NOT to use…(we’ve also made a You Tube video on this if visuals are more your thing)
Water
*Dries quickly on the lash strip and lashes will return back to their original form (no spike)
*Lash adhesive requires a specific humidity level, but too much moisture could weaken the bond between the extension and the natural lash.
*The impurities in tap water can mess with your retention rate
*Will create ‘spike opening effect once spikes are placed on client and spikes will not last.
Primer (or alcohol based liquids)
*The pH level of your lash environment is just as important as your temperature and humidity level (you can read more info on this here) . Alcohol will create a very high acidity level and this will make your lash adhesive not cure correctly - thus you’ll lower your retention rate.
*Most (not all) primers are alcohol based FYI
*Will create ‘spike opening effect once spikes are placed on client and spikes will not last.
Cleanser
*Having the impurities / residue left on the strip will effect your curing process and lower your retention rate
*Wrong pH level (it would be far too alkane)
What you could sometimes use:
If you're creating a more textured look with spikes that are thinner and not too dramatic you could use Locks Lash Unicorn Tears
Pros:
*You’ll be creating the perfect pH level environment for your lash adhesive and will have excellent retention
*Good for a textured wispy look
Cons:
*Evaporates quickly so you’ll have to work in small sections of the strip at a time
*Not great for anime look (more dramatic)
*When dries the strip / spikes will return to their original state (fluffy) which defeats the purpose of creating spikes
What to use:
Absolute Retention Superbonder
This is absolutely the best liquid to use - and there is science backing this statement!
To give you a very quick overview of Absolute Retention;
Humidity is what cures lash adhesive. Humidity will enter the lash adhesive from the outside layer moving into the centre.
Sometimes, due to the environment, the moisture (humidity) won’t reach the centre of the adhesive and thus will not cure fully in the centre. This leads to low retention and fume emission.
Superbonder works by encouraging the tiny particles of moisture already in the adhesive to be pushed outwards (after being applied to lashes), thus curing lash adhesive from the inside out, all within 2-4 mins. So the humidity in your environment is working on the outside layers of the glue and the superbonder is working on the inside layers.
Additionally the product’s compatibility with various adhesives and its ability to perform well in different humidity levels make it a reliable choice for lash tech’s seeking consistency in their work.
*Prevents the dreaded “spike opening” effect and has the longest time frame of created spikes on your lash strip.
*Creates a bond strong enough to withstand moisture and wear, giving your clients the ultimate lash look that lasts.
*Does not dry / evaporate and leaves spikes on lash strips that last.
*Does not make lashes/spikes fluffy
*Helps to keep the spikes in their original shape even after wear & tear from client (longevity of spikes)
*Reduced irritation
*Faster curing time / higher retention rate
Of course Locks Lash has an amazing course on Anime and Wispy sets (designed for already practised lash technicians) - you can view them here.
